Chef Chin (Convoy)

Date of Dining: 9/21/2012
Price: ~$6-9 for veggies an appetizers, $10-15 for entrees, market price for seafood
Location: 4433 Convoy St, San Diego, CA 92111
website

The Quick Bit

+ outstanding Shanghai style preparation

+ diverse menu with many great options

+ well balanced Chinese dishes

+ low corkage fee

Δ seafood shells could have been pre-cracked better

Δ service could be more attentive

Δ menu items could reflect real names instead of coming up with cute pseudonyms

After showing what San Diego has been missing in the Chinese food scene, I thought it only fitting to show what San Diego has recently come into in comparison.  Chef Chin (formerly Chin's on Convoy) came about as a result of a schism in the ownership group of Chin's. One side of the group wanted to expand the restaurants out past San Diego while the other side wanted to stay focused in one area. As a result, Chef Chin was born as it was bought out launched as a pilot restaurant for the new imperialist owners.

Perhaps the most important change the new regime made was to import an accomplished chef from Shanghai to run the restaurant. While the menu ranges to many Szechwan cuisine as well, Chef Chin really specializes in Shanghai style cuisine. The essence of Chinese cuisine is to create very balanced and well-rounded dishes; each dish must achieve great balance on its own and stand on its own. This is what allows several courses to be set in the middle of the table at once for a family style meal as each dish has its own distinct flavors that sets it apart from others.

In order to get a good sense of the menu and lay some dining plans for the next months, fellow writers Rodzilla and Yao from {insert-food} joined me for this meal. Somehow we were branded the "ultra secret dinner club" from this. One interesting tidbit from this Shanghai restaurant is that the water is served iced instead of boiled - traditionally Shanghai restaurants serve hot water only to show it has been boiled.

Appetizers

pickled spicy cucumber

The cucumber was pickled in the Chinese style so that it had an tremendous balance between sour, sweet, and spicy. All the elements came together with the underlying sourness to really open up the palate and serve as a great amuse.

pickled jellyfish head

While there is some inherent flavor in the jellyfish, this dish is really all about the texture. The crunchy yet spongy texture of the jellyfish has a fun interplay on the textural senses in the mouth and served as a nice starting point for the meal. 

roast beef and ox stomach mix

This appetizer was more of a Szechwan style appetizer. With an underlying but light sense of heat along with some light Sichuan peppercorn oil, this dish laid a base for the future spicer dishes to come. The hearty proteins were also indicative of the future protein courses.

smoked fish

To round out the appetizers, the smoked fish really brought the progression to a point where the meal could be eaten and enjoyed. The fish had the great depth of flavor from the smokiness, the sweet glaze really complemented all the flavors. While there are bones in the fish that can be eaten, this should still be done with caution and only after much chewing.

green jade fish soup - fish, egg, chinese mustard greens

The green jade fish soup rounded out our appetizers. While all the appetizers were good, this dish really brought everything together; it was almost like it signaled an end to the first meal so that a second meal could begin. With most of the appetizers being cold, the soup really warmed the up the core of the body and brought an immense satisfaction to the palate.

Seafood

Bi Feng Tang Crab - crab with golden garlic

Shanghai is known for crab dishes. Moreover, Shanghai restaurants are known specifically for Bi Feng Tang style crab. In this style,the crab is fried along with a lot garlic so that everything is a nice golden color. The garlic and sugar impart a deeply rich and complex flavor that permeates through all of the crab.
While this particular preparation of the crab was slightly overcooked, all of the elements in the flavor were still present. The garlic really imparted a large amount of flavor into the crab, which made it especially enjoyable to eat. Most surprisingly, despite the frying technique there was very little remaining oil in the preparation.

zhao pai lobster 

While this lobster doesn't really compare with the one from last week, its preparation was still the best I have seen in San Diego. An integral part of a Chinese restaurant's success is being able to order high quality live seafood dishes as these dishes are celebratory in nature. This dish fulfills that need, making Chef Chin a great destination for a Chinese meal.

Entrees

braised pork with preserved vegetables

This dish is perhaps the signature dish at Chef Chin as it is featured prominently in all the marketing. This dish also delivers as it was my favorite dish of the evening. The pork belly is braised until it is fork tender and smothered in a sweet yet complex sauce that really complements the flavor of the pork. While this dish looks intensely rich, it maintained a great sense of balance and was still easy to eat.

Szechwan spicy intestine hot pot

While I am a fan of intestines, I generally prefer the dry style. This was probably the least favorite dish of the evening as the wet style of hot pot required a large amount of garlic to neutralize the resulting flavors.

chinese squash with preserved shrimp

In contrast to the intestines, the Chinese squash was beloved by all. This was definitely in the top three dishes of the night as the Chinese squash contained an intense depth of flavor. Almost every person at the table who tried this for the first time had a verbal explanation of surprise when tasting the squash flavor.

braised tofu in spicy bean sauce

The braised tofu was also a favorite at the table. The tofu was really seasoned well and the sauce made the dish very tasty. The accompanying mushrooms really enhanced the flavors of the dish to give it a meaty flavor even though this dish was entirely vegetarian.

sauteed lamb slices with cumin and scallions

This was another favorite at the table. The lamb was cooked incredibly tender and the cumin imparted a nice complement to the gamey flavor in the lamb. This also served as the "red meat" of the meal as there was very little otherwise.

ma la fragrant pot - chili, shrimp, pork, tripe, celery, lotus root

While this dish is one of the signature dishes at Chef Chin, this time I did not agree with the outcome. The flavors of dish suggested that it had been prepared previously and left at the hot plate to die. The shrimp was egregiously overcooked and the dish lacked an overall vibrant zing. While our table did not have the space for the dish, I would have preferred that they brought out the plate and allowed for people to decide how to consolidate dishes and make space.

Dessert

black sesame soup rounds with fermented rice soup

To finish off the meal, we got the Shanghai rendition of a classic Chinese dessert - soup rounds. The soup rounds are small rice dumplings that were filled with a sweet black sesame filling. What made this dish particular to Shanghai was the use of the fermented rice in the soup, as fermented rice is a key ingredient to Shanghai cuisine. I really enjoyed the soup rounds and thought that it really rounded out the meal well.

Conclusion

Chef Chin is the best Chinese restaurant I've eaten at in San Diego. With the authentic flavors and diverse menu selection that is generally prepared well, this new restaurant venture is poised for success. If you want a taste of real Shanghai cuisine, do not miss Chef Chin. While there are still some kinks to work out, mainly with the service, the restaurant is poised for success.

Until Chef Chin works out some of the service issues (which turned into food issues), I can only award it the megabyte award.

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Tan Cang Newport Seafood (Santa Ana) - Interrupt

Date of Dining: 9/15/2012
Price: $14.99 per pound of lobster, $8-14 other per dish
Location: 4411 W. First Street, Santa Ana, CA 92703
website

The Quick Bit

+ great lobster

+ other dishes are also prepared well

Δ parking lot could be larger

Δ could accept credit cards

Δ service could be more "above the board"

When people ask me for a Chinese restaurant recommendation in San Diego and I am unable to (in good conscience) make a recommendation, the followup question is usually, "why not?" Tan Cang Newport Seafood in Santa Ana epitomizes what I would expect from an equivalent Chinese restaurant in San Diego.

First, let me start with this; the food tastes absolutely amazing. There are a lot of problems with this restaurant. It's crowded and a little dirty, the service is typical of Chinese restaurants, the parking lot is too small for the crowds, and they only accept cash. However, let me end with this; the food tastes absolutely amazing.

Live Seafood

zhao pai lobster - lobster, ginger, scallions, chili

I set aside the live seafood as a section because any self-respecting Chinese restaurant will have a great selection of live seafood. These selections can include lobster, crab, spot prawns, geoduck, and fish. Tan Cang is known particularly for their lobster, but the other seafood is good as well.

The lobster was prepared in the "zhao pai" style, which is to say it is fried and then sauteed with ginger, scallions, and chili. The succulent flavor of the lobster is really complemented by the aromatics. While American lobster is usually enjoyed with clarified butter, the Chinese preparation of lobster imparts a rich and complex flavor throughout the entire lobster. This is partially due to the lobster being chopped into pieces first so that the sauce can permeate through the entire animal. However, the lobster is still cooked to perfection and the meat retains a nice delicate yet chewy texture.

To eat the lobster, the waiters gave separate plates for the shells, which were removed at an appropriate pace as we accumulated shells. This was actually quite excellent service compared to the typical restaurant.

Regular dishes

clams in black bean sauce - onions, bell pepper

While Tan Cang usually nails this dish, this particular evening did not go over too well. There was too much cooking wine used in the sauce that a large alcohol taste permeated throughout the dish. This marred an otherwise excellent preparation of clams.

pea sprouts - garlic

The pea sprouts dish was another setback on the evening and an example of the "typical service." We wanted to order the "big pea shoots" but were informed that they only had the sprouts. When I tried to change the order, the waiter had already closed the ordering process and walked away.

There was nothing wrong with the preparation of the pea sprouts except that we didn't want the dish. They were perhaps slightly overcooked but were flavored well.

kung pao chicken

While you may ask why I order kung pao chicken, it is Tan Cang's best non-seafood dish. The chicken is incredibly flavorful and is cooked to maintain a nice tenderness in the center. The kung pao flavoring is spot on and has the exact balance of sweet with spicy. 

Conclusion

While Tan Cang Newport Seafood has a variety of "typical Chinese" issues to sort through, the quality and flavor of the food was excellent. They were so good that one actually can ignore all the problems. With the relatively cheap price of the lobster compared to the quality, Tan Cang delivers an extremely satisfying meal.

For the lobster and kung pao chicken that I just can't get out of my mind, Tan Cang Newport Seafood receives the megabyte award.

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Davanti Enoteca - Carmel Valley

Date of Dining: 9/9/2012
Price: $7-11 appetizers, $12-19 plates (3 order per person probably)
Location: 12955 El Camino Real, San Diego, 92130
website

The Quick Bit:

+ well-prepared pastas

+ interesting and well prepared salads

Δ entrees could be stronger

Δ portions of plates could be larger

When I last visited a Scott Harris restaurant, I was less than pleased due to both the hostess and the entrees. Since it is now long past the "3 month window" for new restaurants, I returned next door to visit the other Scott Harris restaurant in the complex. From a quick glance, Davanti seemed fairly full while Mia Francesca was nearly empty - I guess the three months didn't improve the outlook others had of Mia Francesca.

I dined with a group of four and we decided to just order a bunch of items and share them all.

Starters:

chicken liver pate

The chicken liver pate came with some bread and appeared to be topped with boiled red cabbage. While I enjoyed the pate, others at the table were less than thrilled. The pate definitely had a strong offal quality to it, but I found that the flavor had a lot of depth and was very enjoyable.

ricotta + honeycomb

The ricotta and honeycomb went over much better with the table. The ricotta was finished even before the bread was eaten. The honeycomb was a true piece of a local honeycomb and had an amazing freshness and quality to the flavor. It really brought up the overall quality of the ricotta.

4 for $20 - prosciutto di parma, salame tartufato, taleggio, gorgonzola

For $5 increments, a board of 3, 4, or 5 selections can be made. The prosciutto was the highlight of the plate. It contained a very delicate texture but was supported with a really nice cure that gave a great depth and complexity to the flavor. While the salame tartufato was supposed to have truffle, I almost felt the curing of the prosciutto had more of the truffle quality than the salame. The taleggio had a nice earthy balance to the rest of the meats, but didn't end up pairing well because the other meats were great on their own. Similarly, the gorgonzola was out of balance when compared to the meats on the plate.

shaved brussels sprout - pecorino parmesan vinaigrette

While this salad looks simple, it actually packed quite the punch. The sharpness of the pecorino and parmesan really complemented the bitterness of the brussels sprouts, and the entire dish had a nice earthy feel to it.

roasted corn - walnuts, aged goat cheese, arugula, wild mushrooms

This corn salad was the best appetizer of the night. The sweetness of the corn was contrasted with the earthy taste of the mushroom and the bitterness of the arugula. The almonds added a nice crunch as well. I could have eaten three of these by myself.

Plates

focaccia di recco - honeycomb

If Davanti has a signature dish, this is it. This is basically two flabreads that are sandwiching some cheese, and honey can be rubbed on top for the final product. Had we not ordered the ricotta appetizer, this would have been amazing. As it was, it was still extremely good, but was almost a repeat of the ricotta. This dish was less sweet than the appetizer, so there was more complexity in both texture and the depth of the cheese flavors. 

paccheri can salsiccia e pomodori al forno - giant rigatoni, sausage, tomato, parmigiano

The rigatoni were cooked almost too al dente, but this ended up working out because they really needed to stand up the spiciness of the sausage. The sausage was a typical hot italian sausage, but was cooked well to complement the entire dish.

riccio di mare e granchio - linguine, sea urchin, crab

This was the best dish of the night. The sea urchin really integrated well with the linguine and made the pasta taste of the urchin. This was complemented by the succulent sweetness of the crab. This is another dish where I could have eaten three by myself because it was so good.

bistecca con ravanelli e funghi - grilled hanger steak, roasted radish, grilled oyster mushroom, saba, salsa verde

While I thought the presentation of this dish was incredible, I ended up thinking it was just so-so. The balsamic on the plate overwhelmed the other flavors, and the dish had a prevailing sweetness to the entire dish. Even the salsa verde was not enough to stand up to the sweetness of the balsamic.

Conclusion

I was much happier with my visit to Davanti Enoteca than Mia Francesca. There were some great dishes and the menu contains a great variety of dishes. Some of the dishes were real home runs, while others have a lot of work required. I would definitely return to Davanti to try some other dishes in the future. We also had no issues with the service.

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Del Mar Rendezvous - Restaurant Week Fall 2012 + Giveaway

Date of Dining: 9/4/2012
Price: $30 for 3 course prix fixe
Location: 1555 Camino Del Mar Suite #102, Del Mar, CA 92014
website

The Quick Bit

+ good tasty flavors

+ trendy chinese food

+ great service and great restaurant acoustics

Δ desserts could have been less sweet

Disclosure: This meal was provided as part of a media preview event by the restaurant

In preparation of Restaurant Week Fall 2012, Del Mar Rendezvous has been putting on a media blitz by going for a lot of coverage to preview their Restaurant Week menu. For a restaurant that San Diego magazine has voted Best Chinese in San Diego for three years running, you would think is unnecessary, but they did it anyway. You can see what my fellow food writers Rodzilla and Erin thought of their meals as well. Just like those other writers, I will have details about my giveaway later in this post.
This was my first experience at Del Mar Rendezvous, and I really appreciated the background that was given by the manager. There has been a long standing rumor that Rendezvous was owned by the same owner as Dumpling Inn on Convoy. Chef Mark Sun, the original chef of Dumpling Inn, first retired after opening that restaurant before being lured out of retirement to open Del Mar Rendezvous. He then passed the reigns of the restaurant to his nephew Tony, who was also the head chef at Dumpling Inn for four years. Today, Chef Tony remains the head chef of Del Mar Rendezvous. The style of Del Mar Rendezvous is to have modernized Chinese cuisine using the freshest and best ingredients.
Like all restaurant week menus, Rendezvous offers a 3 course meal with appetizer, entree and dessert, but only for $30. Additionally if you make it to the restaurant between 4-6 and mention "6 before 6" you can get either of the two restaurant week upgrades for $6 (normally $12). They also offer a lunch option that includes a noodle dish with appetizer or dessert for $20. Finally, Rendezvous is running restaurant week for 3 weeks - starting 1 week early and ending 1 week later (Sept 8-30) - so there is plenty of time to visit.

Appetizers

steamed dumpling sampler - har gau (shrimp), su jiao (vegetable), xiao long bao (pork)

The xiao long bao were excellent and the best I've had in San Diego. They really highlighted the entire dish. When I bit into it, I was able to sip the succulent and rich pork broth, and the wrapping was the perfect size and thickness. I would put these xiao long bao on par with Din Tai Fung in Los Angeles.

yu hsiang eggplant - eggplant, garlic, szechuan chili paste, soy, sugar, vinegar

One good rule of thumb is the order the "weird" item on the menu as it is usually something the chef really wants to prepare. I followed this rule and ordered the eggplant in this case and wasn't disappointed. When the eggplant arrived, it was extremely fragrant. The sauce reminded me of some dishes I had in China with a nice sweet and spicy contrast. Eggplant is usually an item I would never order from a restaurant, but I was happy to get this dish. I do wish that there was some rice to come with the because the sauce was so tasty and would have benefited from having some rice to carry on the flavors of the sauce.

Entrees

mongolian rack of lamb - lamb, green beans, bell pepper

The lamb was cooked to a nice medium rare, and was extremely flavorful. The sweet sauce added a real asian flavor to the dish, as I was constantly dipping the riblets to get more sauce. While this dish adds a $12 charge to restaurant week, it is normally $36 on the menu, so ordering this as the "6 before 6" special would give a "free" appetizer and dessert.

san bei ji (3 cup chicken) - chicken thigh, basil, garlic, ginger, red chili

This dish had to be special ordered, and I was glad that I did. This was easily the best dish of the night. The chicken was extremely tender despite the braising process, and was flaking off the bone. Rodzilla's review expands on how impressive this feat was. For my part, I was happy with how authentic the flavors to this dish were. This was not one of the "modernized" dishes, but that was a good thing. I especially enjoyed that the bones were left in the chicken as this is unheard of in most Chinese restaurants that cater towards Americans. Chicken is another dish that I would never order at a restaurant, but I was again extremely happy for ordering this.

Dessert

mango sorbet - mango sorbet, whipped cream

The portion size of this sorbet was extremely large. The mango shell was actually hollowed out and contained sorbet all the way down. This was an extremely generous portion and would be great for lovers of sorbet.

xiang jiao - egg roll, banana cheesecake, cinamon, powdered sugar, cream, caramel, chocolate

We decided to try the banana cheesecake roll dessert to finish off the meal as there actually is a similar Chinese dessert. This take really did modernize the classic dish as the egg roll paper was deep fried and extremely crunchy. This dessert should be versatile enough to appeal to lovers of bananas as well as cheesecakes.

Giveaway

I am allowed to give away a full meal for two at Del Mar Rendezvous during the Fall Restaurant Week Period (Sept 8-30, 2012), which includes upgrades. My family members, other food writers, and their significant others are not eligible to win the prize.

To enter the contest, please post a comment with your favorite Chinese dish in San Diego and where to get it. All entries must be submitted by 11:59pm PDT Sunday, September 9. Please make sure I have your contact information if you are submitting an entry so I can inform you that you have won.

3 entries were received (combined 3rd and 4th replies)

Congratulations to Grace Liu! You will be contacted to receive the prize.

Conclusion

Overall I was impressed with the food at Del Mar Rendezvous. I ordered two items that I would never order in a restaurant, but was happy with their flavors. I especially enjoyed the san bei ji preparation, and would order it again. The xiao long bao were also easily the best I've had in San Diego. While the food is not necessarily the most authentic Chinese food (this will be covered soon), it was definitely a very tasty and enjoyable experience. Another great quality of Rendezvous was that my party was able to talk normally and be able to hear the other side - this is a great rarity in San Diego restaurants.

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Misión 19 cocina de autor - September 2012

Date of Dining: 9/1/2012
Price: $55-75 per person
Location: Misión San Javier 10643, Zona Urbana Río, Tijuana, B.C., México
website

The Quick Bit

+ well refined and precisely executed food

+ intense and complex flavors

+ great value

+ unique cocktails

Δ some inconsistency in cooking temperature

Δ meal could have had better progression

Over one year ago, fellow food enthusiast Dining Diva began speaking about how great the food Chef Javier Plascencia produced at his restaurant Mision 19. This was followed by the now famous street gourmet article that really popularized Chef Plascencia. In March, I was lucky enough to attend Chef Plascencia's pop-up event in San Diego. When fellow food writer {insert-food} and Dining Diva discussed a group trip to Tijuana, I was very excited to attend.

Chef Plascencia's food is "Baja Mediterranean," which to me means that it is heavily Mexican inspired, but with elements of Asian and Mediterranean cuisine mixed in. Since March, Chef Plascencia's star has really been rising and he is seldom found cooking at his restaurants during the weekends. 

Traveling to Tijuana can be scary, but Dining Diva assured me that unless you were looking for trouble, it is quite safe. Further, Misión 19 is in the "nice" part of town - it was a short 10 minute cab ride from the border to the restaurant. Our cab drivers (to and from the restaurant) even spoke passable English. 

Drinks

As we settled into the restaurant, we were encouraged to order drinks before even seeing the menu.

mezcalero - tropical fruit puree, mandarin lemon juice, chile de arbol, mezcal, chapulin salt

We started with the mezcalero, which I thought was going to be more like a margarita, but ended as a foofy drink. The tropical fruits and mandarin juice were really well balanced against the mezcal with a complex symphony of sweet, tart, sour, and alcohol.

tamarind martini - piquin chile salt, coconut pineapple spume

The tamarind martini was described as the signature drink, being on the menu since the restaurant opened. The martini had a really nice texture with the creaminess of the coconut spume, but the drink was a little sweet for my tastes. 

Appetizers

The appetizers were described to be the "best" part of the menu. At the price point, and the difficulty in getting to the destination, we decided to order two appetizers per person to get more of a tasting menu experience.

asado de cochinillo - pork belly, corn tortilla crepes, cilantro, selection of salsas

salsa accompaniment

This was the most flavorful dish of the night. The pork came with some corn tortillas (not pictured) that were prepared more as crepes. The pork itself was cooked to be extremely tender, and the accompanying sauces really made the dish interactive and fun. The whole experience reminded me of a great peking duck as the tortillas were similar to peking duck crepe, and the fatty, crunchy, sweet pork was really elevated to the level more similar to duck.

tiradito de lengua de res - beef tongue, radish,  arugula, onions, elephant garlic, shimeji mushrooms

The technical execution of this dish was quite the marvel. The tongue itself was cooked perfectly and acted as vessel to carry flavors of rich umami, pepper, and textural crunch. 

ensalada de nopal curado - nopales, pepita-cilantro pesto, shrimp, burrata, apple, arugula

This was one of my favorite dishes. The nopales were chopped fine and prepared almost as if they were small noodles. They were extremely tender and flavorful. The biggest surprise to me was the pepita cilantro pesto; the pesto really integrated well with the other parts of the salad to tie together the dish. The burrata had an extremely creamy milky texture and really added a rich flavor to the dish.

pulpo a la plancha - grilled octopus, crispy fried potato, black garlic, garlic puree, pistachio,
tomato, fried bread croutons, habanero salsa

This was the most memorable and most complex dish of the night. The pistachios, tomatoes, and habanero salsa really integrated well with the flavors of the octopus to give a full-flavored bite. The black garlic added a great element of sweetness while the garlic puree served as an additional optional sauce. When the octopus was grilled well and delicate, this was the most complex and flavorful mouthful of the entire evening.

Entrees

lengua y costilla de res en coccion lenta - beef short ribs, beef tongue, salsa verde, masa dumplings
popped hominy

before sauce

The short rib dish was the best entree of the evening. The short rib was extremely tender, and there was an extra addition of fat to add even more unctuous flavor. The tongue was a nice change of pace from the short rib. The beef was grass fed, and the true flavors of the beef really sang true - I hadn't enjoyed beef like this since Chef Schmidt left Blanca. 

tablita - 48 hour sous vide beef, beluga lentils, cocoa, vanilla marinated squash

The sous vide beef was really well prepared as well, but paled slightly against the short rib dish. While the short dish was more about accentuating the flavors of beef, this dish seemed more about letting the beef flavors shine on their own. The cocoa added a nice element of bitterness that really brought out even more beef flavors. The beluga lentils surprisingly added a nice textural accent to the dish.

Dessert

pop tarts de la infancia - brown sugar and cinamon pop tarts, chocolate malt, strawberry ice cream

The ice creams were really enjoyable as there was a lot more cream involved in the process, so there was a lot more creamy richness with each bite. That said, this dish seemed out of place with the entire evening and needed a lot more work. The pop tarts themselves were too bready, and the proportion of tart to dip was off.

red velvet - molten chocolate rapsberry cake, ice cream, oat crumble, grape gelee

This was a great dessert. The chocolate cake was extremely well prepared and wasn't too sweet. The raspberry in the cake really added a nice flavor boost to the cake. The ice cream was also extremely creamy and enjoyable.

Conclusion

Overall, the entire meal at Misión 19 was extremely enjoyable. While the meal lacked a single dish that jumped up and screaming "amazing," the level of all the dishes was generally high. The appetizers were composed extremely well and were difficult to follow up on, but the entrees were good as well. While Dining Diva mentioned the desserts had been a weakness in the past, we had one hit and one miss (but both new), so it seems like they will improve over time. 

I'm extremely happy I got to experience Chef Plascencia's food on his home turf and look forward to more visits to Misión 19 as well as the other restaurants.

For the extremely high level of execution on the whole, Misión 19 is awarded the gigabyte award.

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